Had any Boars’ Head lately? Ate a Pub Sub, perchance? If so, then beware. 71 meats recalled, one product infected, nine people dead, 57 more ill, and seven lawsuits in progress are all consequences of gross meat mismanagement.
Federal investigators first documented unsanitary conditions at a Boar’s Head plant in Jarratt, Virginia in June 2023. Despite the 84 reports that followed- including descriptions of “orange/brown water” gathered in a pipe, blood puddles on the floor, “rancid smell in the cooler,” and swarms of flies mingling among vats of pickles- little was done to correct the problems. This past summer, the most deadly issue of all reared its ugly, unicellular head.
Listeria is a bacteria commonly found in soil, water, and animal feces, but it can propagate in improperly processed meats and unpasteurized milk as well. Able to withstand refrigeration and freezing, it is particularly dangerous to pregnant women, the very young, and the very old, but can be fatal to anyone.
Virginia resident Gunter Morgenstein was one of nine individuals who perished after consuming Boars’ Head liverwurst, which was contaminated with listeria. 57 others are currently sick. Countless others may be affected, as the meat has been sold across the country and internationally. “People need to get their fix of meat, but they need to get it the right way,” said North Atlanta freshman Georgia Bharwani, “I don’t want to die!”
The recall’s impact is widespread, but not necessarily well-known. Morgenstien’s family members felt that Boars’ Head did a poor job alerting the public. His wife told The New York Times, “We certainly wouldn’t have bought it if we had seen that [the product had been recalled].”
Boar’s Head is now advising that consumers check their refrigerators, dispose of recalled items, and disinfect any surfaces that the meat may have touched. Some criticize this PSA as too little, too late. Referring to the victims, Bharwani said, “Addressing it isn’t going to bring their lives back.”
The fault is not Boars’ Head alone. The Federal Food and Drug Administration and the United States Department of Agriculture have also failed to protect the public. Somehow, a bacteria has eluded the USDA’s “zero-tolerance policy” and eroded the trust of American consumers. “I’m scared to eat my turkey sandwich,” said North Atlanta freshmen George Thomas, “I’ll probably still be eating it, but I’m kind of scared about it now.”
Like Thomas, all consumers will have to forge a way forward as they reckon with the tragedy that has befallen them and the disillusionment they face. The gross ineptitude of Boars’ Head and federal leadership serves as a painful reminder that, even in today’s modern times, it’s still a jungle out there.
